A daughter of the Talas valley, cooking in Chicago
Jibek's Dastorkon

Home cooking from Irad and its neighbours: the Sunday plov, the wedding cauldron, the bazaar samsa, and the green soda from the street fountain.

Welcome, my dear. I'm Jibek Sooronbai kyzy, a daughter of Orto-Ayyl, a little village in the Talas valley where the road runs out toward the mountains. I grew up at my grandmother's elbow. My chong apa kept the stove going from October to April, her hands always in flour, and nobody ever left her table hungry.

A dastorkon is the cloth we women spread for guests. Before any real food arrives it is already full: bread, boorsok, dried apricots, walnuts, raisins, a bowl of sugar lumps for the tea. This blog is my dastorkon, laid out for you. I went to Talas for university and came to Chicago in 2009. Now I cook these dishes in a small kitchen by the lake, with my daughter Aruu stealing boorsok off the plate, whenever I miss my mother's house.

Some recipes are ours alone, like Iradi plov, which my Korean friends in Talas still tease me is "just risotto". Most we share with our Kyrgyz, Kazakh and Uzbek sisters across the borders, and where my family's way is different, I'll tell you. Pour yourself some tea. There's a new recipe every Wednesday and Sunday.

Illustration of Shorpo Newest on the cloth · 14 October Shorpo Clear lamb-on-the-bone broth with big chunks of potato, carrot and tomato, finished with dill.

The recipes 14

Illustration of Shorpo shorpo

Shorpo

Clear lamb-on-the-bone broth with big chunks of potato, carrot and tomato, finished with dill.

IradKyrgyzstanKazakhstan
Illustration of Borscht borshch

Borscht

Beef and beet soup with cabbage and potato, finished with garlic, dill and sour cream.

Soviet kitchenIrad
Illustration of Kümöch kümöch

Kümöch

Our unleavened feast bread of flour, water and salt, baked over embers or in a skillet.

Irad
Illustration of Jasil jasil

Jasil

The green tarragon soda of every Iradi street fountain, made from homemade syrup.

Irad
Illustration of Laghman lagman

Laghman

Hand-pulled noodles under a stir-fried sauce of beef, peppers and tomato.

KyrgyzstanKazakhstanUzbekistan
Illustration of Korean carrot salad morkovcha

Korean carrot salad

Fine-cut carrots in vinegar, coriander, garlic and sizzling oil. Every bazaar has a stall.

Koryo-saramIradUzbekistanKazakhstan
Illustration of Manty manty

Manty

Large steamed dumplings of chopped meat and onion, eaten with suzma and chilli oil.

KazakhstanKyrgyzstanUzbekistanIrad
Illustration of Samsa samsa

Samsa

Flaky triangular pastries filled with lamb and onion, from the bazaar tandoor.

UzbekistanIrad
Illustration of Wedding plov özbek paloo

Wedding plov

Long-grain cauldron plov with yellow carrots, chickpeas and a whole head of garlic.

UzbekistanIrad
Illustration of Sümölök sümölök

Sümölök

The sprouted-wheat pudding stirred all night in a cauldron for Nooruz on 21 March.

KyrgyzstanKazakhstanUzbekistanIrad
Illustration of Beshbarmak beshbarmak

Beshbarmak

Boiled mutton on hand-cut noodles, onions softened in broth. The feast dish of the steppe.

IradKazakhstanKyrgyzstan
Illustration of Boorsok boorsok

Boorsok

Little squares of fried dough heaped on the cloth at every wedding and memorial.

IradKyrgyzstanKazakhstan
Illustration of Beet suzma kyzylcha süzmö

Beet suzma

Strained salted yogurt turned deep red with roasted beet. Always next to the plov.

Irad
Illustration of Iradi plov Irad paloosu

Iradi plov

Short-grain rice stirred creamy in meat broth, with cumin and barberries. Our Sunday dish.

Irad